Sunday, September 25, 2022

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Fradis Minoris* – Stefan’s Connoisseur Weblog

Fradis Minoris is a fish restaurant on the southern coast of Sardinia within the city of Pula that has simply acquired its first Michelin star. It’s situated on the dam that separates the lagoon of Nora from the open sea.

The stroll over the dam to the restaurant underlines the very acceptable location for a fish restaurant.

The tables are proper on the seafront, with the fixed sound of the surf as background music.

There are 4 degustation menus to select from: 5 programs fish (95 euros), 5 programs fish/vegetarian (80 euros), 7 programs fish (110 euros), and seven programs fish/vegetarian (95 euros). We opted for 7 programs fish, with wine pairing (80 euros).

We began with a glowing Vermentino from Sardinia, with the second fermentation within the bottle and aged 66 months on the lees. Fairly contemporary with notes of bruised apple.

The amuse bouche had been very nice. They included smoked tuna on a seaweed cracker, pane carasau with very robust runny cheese, an area cherry tomato, spicy pickled mussels, and a terrine of fish heads.

The primary wine was a rosé made out of Cannonau (Grenache).

It was pairing for the primary dish: uncooked shrimp with apple and seaweed. This dish performed closely on the unctuous texture of the shrimp, which makes it troublesome to pair a wine. However the rosé labored.

The dish was accompanied by seaweed bread and shrimp butter, which is butter flavored with the heads of the shrimp (and werved within the form of a flamingo, a chicken that forages on shrimp within the lagoon).

The next wine was an orange wine from autochthonous grapes from Sardinia. It was fairly astringent by itself, however with the dish it was very good.

The second course consisted of two components: an oyster with do-it-yourself kefir, served with burning mirto to supply a smoky scent…

…and uncooked ricciola (amberjack) with a bell pepper sauce and crispy pores and skin.

The third was one other rosé, this time a mix of 10 mild skinned and darkish skinned autochthonous grape varities. It’s not allowed to make rosé by mixing white wine with purple wine, however it’s allowed to combine mild skinned and darkish skinned grapes when fermenting the wine. This wine was fairly acidic by itself, however once more the dish introduced out the flavour of the wine.

The dish was ‘buttons’ of contemporary pasta full of extremely aged pecorino cheese, served in a concentrated fish soup with scorpionfish tartare. It’s normally thought-about sacrilege in Italian delicacies to combine seafood with cheese, however the chef doesn’t care about guidelines however provided that it tastes good. And the robust flavors of fish soup and cheese did certainly go alongside, though they had been so robust that the scorpionfish solely offered a textural component.

It was very considerate that some bread was offered to mop up the fish soup afterwards, which is named fare la scarpetta.

The next wine was a Vernaccia from Sardinia, which isn’t the identical grape selection as Vernaccia from Tuscany.

This fruity wine was pairing for one more ‘sacrilegious’ dish: liguine with pecorino and bottarga. The linguine with the pecorino was ready in the way in which of spaghetti cacio pepe, after which a beneficiant quantity of bottarga was grated on prime of it. A youthful model of pecorino was used for this, and the mixture was very good. What made this dish much more particular is that the waiter instructed us he had caught the flathead gray mullet (muggine) himself within the lagoon, and that the bottarga is made out of scratch by the restaurant. Bottarga is the salted and cured roe pouch of the gray mullet and a specialty of Sardinia.

As a wine lover and connoisseur I prefer to attempt new grape varieties and so I actually loved all the bizarre Sardinian wines on this pairing. The subsequent one was a Semidano.

It was pairing for grilled octopus with pureed lentils and a peach sauce. The octopus was very flavorful and chewy however tender.

The sixth wine was a Malvasia, once more not associated to the Malvasia from elsewhere in Italy.

This fragrant wine was pairing for the gray mullet with squash puree. The fish was moist and cooked to perfection.

It was served with some ‘dashi’.

The dessert wine was a properly balanced and contemporary moscato passito.

It was pairing for the chocolate, figs, and seaweed dessert, that was very appropriately formed like a sea shell and coral.

The friandises had been additionally good and included mirto, grapes, and chocolate with dulce de leche.

Our first go to to Fradis Minoris turned out to be a really nice shock (as we didn’t know what to anticipate). The meals was very artistic. Typically maybe a bit extra artistic than scrumptious, however all the time very tasty and nicely executed.

I actually loved the wine pairings, that includes solely wines from Sardinia and solely from small producers and most from obscure autochthonous grape varieties. And all the wine pairings labored, even with some dishes that had been troublesome to pair with. So subsequent to a gifted chef there’s a very gifted sommelier at work right here.

The service was very pleasant and educated, and the employees may be very concerned with the restaurant. I already talked about that the waiter can also be a fishing from the lagoon. Firstly of the meal the service was too sluggish and the restaurant appeared understaffed regardless that not all tables had been in use, however after some time it picked up after which the tempo of the meal was good.

I’ll positively return subsequent time we’re in Sardinia. To complete a photograph of the lagoon (with the restaurant within the again) by daylight:


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